The first time I was in Assisi was the day after Christmas, 1986. I was living in Rome at the time and my mom had come to visit for the holidays. Then we traveled for a few days and Assisi was our first stop.  When we arrived, we couldn’t believe the view: a snow-covered town in the distance, up on a hill.

Thirty-one years later I went back to not only see Assisi again but to discover the Umbria region of Italy. Umbria sits in the center of Italy, above Lazio, the home of Rome, and to the right of Tuscany. I’ve been to Orvieto and Perugia, both in Umbria, but I’ve not traveled the region to see the hill towns. And that was this trip’s purpose.

Assisi is a wondrous Medieval town with steep streets and home to the glorious 13^th century Basilica of San Francesco. The frescoes inside by Giotto are engrossing.  I’m not going to give an art history lesson here but they really are must-see.

The facade of the Upper Basilica, Assisi.

The Basilica of San Francesco, Assisi, the facade of the Upper Basilica.

The Basilica of San Francesco, outside the lower chamber.

This is the birthplace of St. Francis, who preached peace and well-being. You see “Pace e Bene” throughout the town, on ceramic tiles and on gads of souvenirs. It means “Peace and all good” and was the greeting used by St. Francis and the friars.  Walking around the town, I felt that sense of calm. Maybe it was my Catholic background or maybe it was just the presence of the place. Either way, I felt it.

Did I mention that Assisi has steep streets? How everybody here doesn’t have legs of steel is beyond me. I lived in Siena for six weeks in 2015, with its own steep inclines and steps everywhere. Assisi takes that to a new level.

Typical “sidewalk” in Assisi

Just another street in Assisi

Looking up from the Basilica

In Assisi, just before heading to the Basilica.

Heading down to the Basilica

I stayed in an apartment owned by Umbria guide Anne Robichaud, of http://www.anniesitaly.com (a terrific source for all things Umbria) and it was up four flights of steps. So when I wanted to just quickly go to the center of town and get a cappuccino for breakfast, it was down steps, up steps, and then, literally, up the street. But alas, it was worth it. Never underestimate the satisfaction of a cappuccino in Italy.

I arrived in Assisi late in the afternoon and my friend Paola, who came down from Bologna, met me in the center. We greeted Anne in the bar and then made our way to the Basilica. We had about 20 minutes before closing time. We quickly saw the lower Basilica and had about five minutes in the upper Basilica.  And then we walked back to the center, back UP the hill. It’s just the way of life there. By the end of the week, even my quads were stronger. Yay Italy!

On my last day, I went to an alimentari to get an Assisi specialty, Pane di San Francesco, and recounted to the shop owner about that 1986 visit with the snow.  He told me he remembered that year very well. I looked at him a bit skeptically since it was 31 years ago. But he insisted he remembered and regaled me with his own tale of getting around the hilly streets with the snow.

The Basilica of St. Frances, Dec. 26 1986.

My mom on a street in Assisi, December 1986.

I stopped this brother to take his photo. We were so worried about our feet staying dry and here he was in his sandals.

Here are some photos of that 1986 visit. Mom and I weren’t prepared for snow, so we put plastic bags around our feet before donning our gym shoes, unlike the friar, above, who was content in his sandals.

Me, in Assisi, December 1986.

I think this is the same set of steps. Look at the overhang above the doorway on the left. (!)

That’s me, 1986, and then, on the right, are what I think are the same set of steps, albeit with a bit of a makeover.

The view of the Basilica from above, at the fortress, La Rocca Maggiore. Below, the Basilica at night.

The Umbrian countryside.

The Umbrian countryside, December , 1986

Two photos of the same Umbrian countryside, 31 years apart.

A porta, or gate, to the city.

Porta Nuova.

A common sight in Assisi.

A view of the Rocca Maggiore.

La Rocca Maggiore

Steps. Assisi.

Water spout.

“Peace and all-good.”

Assisi buildings.

Streets of Assisi, above. Below, the Duomo of San Rufino, built in the 12th Century.

The Duomo of San Rufino, with its Romanesque facade, built in the 12th Century.

The two lions guarding the door of San Rufino. There are still Roman ruins preserved inside, under the floor.

One of the two lions guarding the door.

Detail above the door of San Rufino.

I was then treated to lunch in the countryside outside of the city limits with Anne and her family in their wonderful country home. This is another great thing about eating in Italy. When you eat local, it’s really a treat because, basically, everything tastes better in Italy.

Olives, cheese, crostini wine, sweet onions.

Spaghetti with wild asparagus and pancetta.

Family lunch in campagna. Grazie a Anna e sua famiglia.