Did you ever go on a vacation and then come home and start looking at photos and think, “What? Did we really do that?”

That’s pretty much what I’ve been doing since I got back from trekking around Mont Blanc, the massive mountain range with parts in France, Italy and Switzerland. Its highest point is 15,774 feet.

The valleys around it are a trekking mecca. Climbs, descents, balcony paths, more climbs, more descents all challenging and all worth it. It did not matter where we were on any given day – there was always the picture-perfect postcard views. Green valleys dotted with chalets in Swiss villages looked like a jigsaw puzzle photo.  

And that’s what made the trip so spectacular, surreal almost, and it’s probably why I’m looking at photos now and wondering, “What? How?”

I signed up for a six-day trek with Mont Blanc Treks.  (https://montblanctreks.com/) I didn’t know anything about them, other than what I read on the Web site.

The trek was along the eastern façade of the mountain. We covered about 100 kilometers (62 miles) total.  Each day was a challenge, with climbs up to 2,000 feet that took three hours most days and then descents which, basically, ground my knees into pulp. I’d do those climbs every day and twice on Sunday if I could avoid some of those descents.

We were a group of ten plus our guide, Neil. We were a mix of experienced hikers and some, like me, not so experienced. It didn’t matter. Everyone was helpful. And even though most days I was the last one in (see above reference to knees), there were always cheers and high-fives all around. And advice! Thank you Patrick and Michael and Neil for guidance on not wearing too many layers and unzipping your coat because we sweat and generate heat.

I’m pretty sure I carried too much stuff in my pack as Neil attested to on the last day when he offered to carry it so I could get through a climb quickly. (You’ll hear more about that when I get to day six.)

Trails were rocky, smooth, muddy or pocked with tree roots. Sometimes they were just a pile of rocks and “path” was just a suggestion. We hiked in rain, cold, sleet, strong winds and sunshine. I loved every minute of it.

DAY ONE: WELCOME TO COURMAYEUR.

I arrived in Courmayeur a day early because I wanted to get acclimated to the high altitude. I’d not been to this part of Italy before so I spent the day being a tourist. It’s relatively easy to get there. I took a bus from Milan, with a change in Aosta. It was so hot in Milan! I hoped as we got closer to the valley, I’d start to feel the cool air but at the bus changeover in Aosta, it was still pretty hot.

It’s a two-hour bus ride to Courmayeur, the first hour of which is on the highway. But then we take an exit and the terrain immediately changes. Now you start to see mountain ranges in the distance.

Then all of a sudden, about two miles out of Courmayeur, you see it – Mont Blanc. It just appears and it’s fantastic! This massive mountain with a glacier on top just sits back, waiting for you to start your adventure. (see photo)

I walk to the hotel and of course, to get there, I have to go up the road. Now jet lag is starting to kick in. But I get a second wind, grab a street map and head into the center of town. The street is lined with high-end shops, restaurants, even an “American Bar.” I sit down outside at a café, drink lots of water and chat up the server, Eleonora. She’s from Milan but spent a year as an exchange student in Michigan. She’s here for a few more months then she’s going to Tokyo to learn Japanese.  

I learn that the local cheese is fontina and the local white wine is Arvine. The crowd is a mix of families, tourists and people with dogs. Lots of dogs. I stopped to pet a bloodhound named Poldo. Why are there so many dogs here? “Covid” says the owner. Everybody got a dog during lockdown.

I head back to the hotel, trying to stay awake as long as possible and then crash early.

The next day, the group is supposed to meet in the lobby and meet Neil. At breakfast, I look out the window and cannot believe the view. (This will be a daily refrain.)

At the meeting, we introduce ourselves, Neil gives us the rundown on how the days will go and we get a T-shirt (a cool, tech T-shirt). He called the trek ahead a “magical journey.” 

The morning routines go like this: breakfast, bring luggage down for the shuttle, meet outside. (The company takes your luggage to the next stop so we were always  carrying just a day pack)

Our first trek took us up 3,700 feet; distance about 11 miles. We bade farewell to Courmayeur in a light rain and started that aforementioned magical journey with a two-hour, two mile climb, on our way to our first mountain hut, Rifugio Bertone.

I was soaking wet, not so much from the rain but from sweat. We stopped, got warm, I drank a cappuccino, used the restroom (always use the restroom) and then we were off again.

The rain finally stopped and the sun came out for awhile. It turned out to be a nice day for a mountain hike. We stopped along the trail for a picnic, eating whatever we brought along in our pack. And staring right at us, through the fog, was the mountain. While it would have been a spectacular view on a clear sunny day, it was no slouch with fog.

We hiked along this balcony path for awhile, up and down, or undulating as Neil liked to say, and then we had the option of going up (yes, up!) to Rifugio Bonatti for a great view. Good God that hill was steep and there was nothing easy about it. I just kept my head down and kept going, up and up. Yes, the view was worth it.  Plus, it was just exhilarating to do it!

Then came the descent. The first part wasn’t that bad. I had just come up that way so there were no surprises. Then the path just turned into rocks; flat, sideways, rocks. Patrick stayed behind and waited for me which I thought was very nice. My feet were aching! No blisters (thank you moleskin). Just aching feet. 

Finally off the hill and on the road, Neil asks if I want to wait for the shuttle bus or just walk to the rifugio. It’s only about 100 meters. I said, “Oh no! I’ve made it this far. Let’s walk it!”  And we did. (Next time, I’m taking that bus.)  

Everyone was already inside the hotel bar and cheered when I got there. I was a just a tad cranky because my feet hurt and all I wanted to do was take a shower. Cheers to Hotel Lavachey and their hot showers!  

Dinner was exceptional. Pasta with a simple tomato sauce, baked chicken, polenta and vegetables from the garden. And I tried Petite Arvine – the local white wine. Everything was delicious.

Neil told us the forecast for the next day did not look good. It was going to be raining even harder in the morning.  OK. But for now, I relished this first day, aching feet, knees and all.

Next: A cold, rainy, sleety, snowy morning shakes things up.