I never thought I would get choked up watching a horse being blessed. I stood in the back of a few hundred Dragon contrada members, watching as a priest sprinkled holy water on the horse. Then he ordered him to “Go and come back a winner!” Such is the tradition of the Palio of Siena.

This was my first Palio, Siena’s storied horse race, and it was one of the most exciting things I’ve ever seen.  As an added bonus, I saw a little bit of history made. The contrada, or district, that had gone the longest without a victory was Lupa (She-Wolf). They last won 27 years ago and were affectionately called la “nonna” (grandma) because of this distinction. Now the title goes to L’Aquila (Eagle) because Lupa won on Saturday. In a thriller. I’m lucky to have been here for it. It was fantastic!

I stood inside the Piazza del Campo with 35,000 or so other people to watch it.  I didn’t have that bad of a view of the race itself, which goes three times around the Piazza and lasts about 75 seconds. The two fantini (jockeys) nicknamed Tittia and Trecciolino, both with Palio victories on their resumes, lead for almost the whole race in first (Tittia) and second places. When the finish line was a mere seconds away, Lupa passed both of them on the inside and won. I have since learned that Tittia’s horse lost a shoe just before Lupa passed him. Oh what might have been. . .

Now imagine thousands of people in an explosion of unbridled joy.  Twenty-seven years they’ve waited.  As per tradition, the Lupa contingent then marched to the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano to give thanks to the Blessed Virgin. Then they hit the streets of Siena with their drums and flags, carrying the Palio, the banner of victory, into the Piazza. They were still at it around midnight and didn’t show any signs of calling it a night.

Part of the tradition of the Palio is to hold dinners in the contrade every night leading up to the race. The big dinner is held the night before, right after the fifth trial run in the Piazza.  I attended Bruco’s dinner along with new friends I made this week. Our Palio guide and Brucaiolo Dario Castagno secured the tickets and we joined about 1,800 other people in the contrada’s beautiful garden.  I stopped in the Piazza on my way home in the wee hours and the atmosphere reminded me of when I lived in New York. The hour didn’t matter and the place was bustling.

I had dinner on Thursday night in the Torre (Tower) contrada with group of friends from the Saena Iulia language school where I studied last year. The school’s director Mauro is  a member of Torre, a Torraiolo. Torre wasn’t in the race and so the dinner was a bit more subdued than in years they are in it. Still, there’s something about alfresco dining on the streets of a Medieval city in Tuscany with 700 others that makes for a lovely evening.

As I wrote last week, there are trial runs held in the Piazza, (six total) mostly to watch your horse and to get the horses acquainted with the course. On our way to the Friday evening trial, we stood near an entrance to the Piazza while every contrada marched by us, horse in tow, fantino in tow, singing and chanting. Tradition. In the attached videos, you’ll hear  fight songs, with the same melodies but different words to according to the contrada and what they’d like to say to their rivals.  They also sang their contrada’s own anthems.

Saturday, the day of the race, I went to the afore-mentioned horse blessing and then watched the Corteo Storico, the pre-Palio pageantry replete with drummers and, flag-tossers from every contrada. Also represented are the contrade that no longer exist. Then the Palio banner made its way around the Piazza.  When it passed, every contradaioli waved their fazzoletti.

Then I couldn’t believe what I heard: 35,000 people in the Piazza del Campo, plus about 1,000 more in the buildings and bleachers, all went silent for the announcement of the horse lineup.  All it took was a “Shhhhh” that spread. However, the lineup is important. It’s decided behind closed doors, according to tradition, by shaking upside down a silver container with colorful balls representing each contrada. How they fall determines the order of the horses.  So everyone needs to hear the position of their horse and, maybe more important, their rival’s post.

Oca (Goose) was called for the first position, next to the rail, and the groan of several hundred Torre contradaioli followed. Torre and Oca are rivals. I glanced over at Mauro. I knew to not ask any questions. Oca finished the race in second place.  You don’t brag about being second. I’m going to go out on a limb and assume that the Torraioli were pleased with the results. (Torre does have some bragging rights as they won last summer’s July 2 Palio.)

Two rivals, Istrice (Porcupine) and Lupa were right next to each other. The last position went to Bruco. This is not a good place to be. True, he gets to decide when the race begins. He hangs back until whenever he determines is the right time. We were lucky. The race went off after about 20 minutes of this tension-filled period. It’s taken more than an hour some years. Then the horses went flying by, through the tricky curves and straight-aways and Lupa made history.

Two days later, I stopped in the office of a Palio archivist, Sergio Profeti, to get his take on how this Palio compares with others, mostly because of the Lupa victory. He said you can’t compare one to another. “Each one is different. And they’re all special,” he said.

I agree with that assessment. I’ve learned a lot this week about the Palio, life in the contrade and the Senese. Their passion, not only for the Palio, but for maintaining these traditions is something I admire. Winning the Palio is everything. I think the one thing that I’m as passionate about . . . is Italy!

CONTRADE MARCHING INTO THE PIAZZA, FRIDAY, JULY 1 

Giovanni Atzeni, center, walks into the Piazza with the Nicchio contrada. Atzeni, nicknamed “Tittia,” has won five Palios, the most recent August 2015.

Aquila contrada members, and their jockey in the dark green, heading into the Piazza.

Waiting to enter the Piazza, contrada in tow.

Luigi Bruschelli, in green in the middle, walks with the Dragon contrada. Luigi, nicknamed “Trecciolino” is one win away from tying the record of 14 Palio victories. He currently has the most victories of active jockeys.

Heading to the Piazza for the Friday evening trial run. The contrada members and officers of the contrada, and the jockey follow, chanting and singing all the way into the Piazza.

Heading to the Piazza for the Friday evening trial run.

Heading to the Piazza for the Friday evening trial run.

Taking the horse through the city streets, back to its stable.

Taking the horse into the Piazza.

TRIAL RUNS OF THE HORSES 

Carabinieri clear the way for the Friday morning trial run. They walk the entirety of the track.

Clean-up crew behind the carabinieri, clearing the track for the trial run.

Giovanni Atzeni had to dismount his horse at one of the trials and pull him into the starting area because the horse would not go there.

The line-up for the trial. Photo courtesy of Roger France.

The horses line up during a morning trial run. Notice how they’re waiting for the tenth rider, far right, to decide when to go. Photo courtesy of Roger France.

My best shot of the horses coming aroung the trick curve of San Martino. There were so many crashes here that they lined the area with mattresses.

After the trial, Aquila’s horse, jockey and contrada members meet and walk off the Piazza together. Every contrada does this.

THE CORTEO STORICO (pre-Palio pageantry)

Part of the Corteo Storico. This procession snakes through city streets before arriving in the Piazza.

Part of the Corteo Storico, the historic pre-Palio march and ceremony.

The Palio banner being carried into the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano. This is the prize for the winner of the Palio.

The Palio banner makes its way around the Piazza. Contrada members wave their fazzoletti as it passes them.

A representative of one of the contrade that no longer exists, the Spadaforte, or Strong Sword.

Another contrada that no longer exists, the Quercia, or Oak.

Members of the carabinieri in full regalia, make two passes around the PIazza. The first time they walk and trot, stopping to salute officials. The second time they take off at full speed. It was impressive.

The carabinieri take to the Piazza.

Oxen pull the cart carrying the Palio banner.

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS FROM MY DAYS OF THE PALIO 

My view during the Friday evening trial run.

A light fixture in the Lupa contrada, which won the Palio after going 27 years without a victory

The flag and symbol of the Lupa contrada, which won the July 2 Palio after 27 years without a victory.

The Palazzo Pubblico, the evening after the Palio. The only flag left hanging on the building is that of Lupa, the winner.

Going into the Piazza del Campo for the Palio. This is the last entrance that stays open.

Dinner’s about to get started in the Bruco contrada Friday night. The garden is beautiful.

The head table during the Bruco contrada dinner.

Group shot in the Piazza during the Friday evening trial run.

The march of the contrade into the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano, the patron of the July 2 Palio. The Palio banner is blessed here in a short ceremony.

Members of the Nobile Contrada del Bruco (caterpillar contrada) as they enter the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano.

Giraffe contrada representatives in the procession enter the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano.

Dinner in the Torre contrada Thursday evening. Me and 700 of my closest friends.

Dinner in the Torre contrada Thusday evening.